Citrus love & a zest for life
Colour on a grey day
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Colour on a grey day. Writing about citrus fruit in January is for me simply necessary. Ingredients we often associate with warmer days are actually a winter fruit. As if nature just knows what we need as if it sprinkles a golden glow on the darker months. Colourful, energising and restorative. I would not be without them in my kitchen, it would be so hard to cook without citrus from puddings, cakes, fish and shellfish, a wheel of garnish over ice and of course a squeeze or two to bring some zing to a recipe. Rays of sunshine always.
Marmalade season there is no better time than now to have a go at making marmalade. Once you have given it a try you will not look back. Mark and I always do this together every year. Pots of beautiful marmalade fill our kitchen and we then greedily eat our way through our delicious jars that sit happily preserved in the larder for the year ahead. It is almost too good to share but the golden jars make a lovely gift for your neighbours, family and friends.
RECIPE:
Seville orange and grapefruit marmalade with thyme
A ritual every January and together with great happiness. A process of peeling, chopping, zesting, squeezing and always laughter. The result is golden jam jars full of delicious marmalade that will see us through the year. Thyme leaves add a lovely herbal note, I use rosemary sometimes too. If you make marmalade you will know that every jar tastes slightly different. Sharp Seville oranges are the best paired with grapefruit and lemon the combination really is like bottling sunshine.
Ingredients
1 kg seville oranges
2 large grapefruits
2 lemons
2.5 litres water
2 kg preserving sugar
A small bunch of thyme (remove the soft leaves from the stalks)
Method
Place all the fruit whole into a large pan and pour 2.5 litres of water over the fruit. Slowly bring to the boil and simmer for 2 hours. Allow to cool. Keep the water that the fruits have been simmering in and use a slotted spoon to remove the citrus fruit from the water and allow it to drain over a bowl. Line another large bowl with gauze or muslin.
Now halve the citrus fruits and scoop out all of the fruit, pips, pith and gubbins as we call it and place in the muslin. Bring the muslin together and tie into a tight bag and squeeze as much into the pan of water. All the juices contain pectin which are essential for setting the marmalade. Tie the bag on to the side of the preserving pan so it is suspended into the water. Slice all the fruit into quarters and shred into the thickness that you prefer. I love this process of shredding feels therapeutic as if time stops briefly and I can get lost in just making marmalade.
Add the sugar to the pan and thyme leaves, with a whisk stir in all the ingredients then bring the liquid up to a simmering point and then a rolling boil uncovered for 15 - 20 minutes, stirring occasionally. When the marmalade reaches 105’C remove from the heat and allow to cool slightly. (see below for wrinkle test)
If there is scum stir in a teaspoon of butter this helps disperse it, before ladling into sterilised jars. Top with waxed discs and put the lids on the jars while the marmalade is still warm. Label and date and store in a larder. Dollop on to porridge, spread onto your toast, make bread and butter pudding or marmalade almond tarts.
Cook’s note - A jam thermometer, ladle and funnel are great tools to invest in if you are preserving fruits. If you don’t have a thermometer use the wrinkle test. Chill 3 side plates in your freezer at the start. After 15-20 minutes at a rolling boil, spoon a teaspoon of marmalade onto a chilled plate and leave it for 1 minute. If the marmalade has a set and wrinkles when pushed gently it is ready if not return to the boil for 5-10 minutes. Repeat the wrinkle test.
Sunshine on a plate
Archive recipes that bring sunshine into your life on the greyest of days:
Grapefruit Drizzle Cake with Bay
Blood Orange Negroni
Lemon Posset
Recipe: Fennel, Orange, Red Onion and Watercress Salad
ROUNDS of oranges always make me think of sunshine. This salad is wonderful, I never like raw onion in salads generally but love the combination of the tangy orange, gentle raw fennel and sweet onion. Joyous and can be eaten on its own or as a lovely accompaniment. Blood oranges work beautifully.
Serves 2
Ingredients
2 fennel bulbs
4 blood oranges
2 red onions
100g watercress
3 tbsp olive oil
1 tsp dijon
Method
Using a mandolin or a sharp knife, shred the fennel and onions into thin slices.
Remove the skin of the oranges with a knife and gently cut out the segments. Do this over a bowl to catch all the juice for the dressing. Squeeze any excess from the oranges after they have been segmented.
Tip the onion into a bowl with the fennel, orange segments and watercress.
To make the dressing: Combine the juice from the orange juice with the olive oil and mustard. Season with sea salt and black pepper. Drizzle over the salad and serve.
Mellow yellow
Homewares to brighten up your day
Pops of colour in your home are a good thing. Mood-boosting yellow is sure to shake off any unwanted bad vibes and leave you feeling joyful and energised. From golds and ambers to ochres and mustards, and I have chosen a few favourite hues of yellow, homewares to bring sunshine and cheer into your life. Good energy is contagious.
Salad bowl, burnt orange from Hot Pottery £45
3 pint jug from Falcon Enamelware £37
Washed linen napkin from Toast £11.50
Ruffle cushion from Rose & Grey £68 (sale)
Gingham duvet set from H & M £39.99
Yellow is the colour
My Apron created with British designer Justine Tabak is stylish and functional and a must have for any kitchen. Or perfect to ear pottering in the garden, painting or arranging flowers.
With inspiration taken from the Cornish Coast, our apron is made in 'Sand' heavily washed linen, as if lifted from a weather-beaten beach, with straps made in 'Sunshine' yellow to lift the spirits and bring joy in any kitchen. Featuring pockets for a mobile phone, a notebook and a long one for a spoon or two, the apron is as practical as pretty. Herringbone tape loop to tie a tea towel and adjustable neck strap.
Fabric and Aftercare
100% European heavy linen, pre-washed. Oeko-tex certified.
Machine wash at 30 degrees. Hang dry or cool tumble. Medium iron on reverse if desired. We encourage minimal washing, saving water and the environment.
One size fits all.
”The joy of this project is that two like minded, creative souls coming to together and creating something unique and beautiful. An apron has always been like armour to me. I feel protected and ready to cook.” - Emily
“With a shared passion for seasonal food and slow fashion, it’s been wonderful to collaborate with Emily on an apron that encapsulates our love of natural, joyful and practical.” – Justine justinetabak.co.uk/
Rounds of sunshine
My Citrus Vodka
My collaboration with Colwith Farm Distillery a wonderful pairing with very much a shared ethos. Strong family roots and growing a business with passion, consistency and hard work in the heart of the Duchy. The connection between the land and sea which is very close to my heart, knowing their story, the provenance of how food and drink finds its way to the table. We bring you Citrus Vodka, soft, clean with creamy vanilla undertones and bright, fragrant sherbet notes*
(A must for any drinks cabinet)
I have Sevilles in the fridge, and look forward to an afternoon of chopping tomorrow! 🍊
Hi Emily. Happy New Year and all good wishes for a successful year ahead for all your projects. On the subject of citrus fruits have you ever made bergamot or kalamansi marmalade with these incredible citrus varieties?